Archive for the ‘ Colorado ’ Category


Cumbres/Toltec: Ridin’ the rails through the scenic San Juan’s

Sunday, September 15th, 2013

I have a good friend who is an avid train enthusiast…when he learned of my plans to visit Pagosa Springs, he highly recommend that I stop in Chama, New Mexico beforehand to take a ride on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. I decided to make plans to spend a few days in the area before heading to Pagosa Springs.

I arrived in Chama late afternoon and stopped by the train station to pick up my tickets for the next days’ 10am departure en route to Antonito, CO.  When I arrived at the Cumbres/Toltec station, I could immediately see why my buddy was so enthralled by this railroad. For starters, there is a lot of moving (and non-moving) stock on various lines for visitors and train enthusiasts to enjoy. Secondly, this authentic, narrow gauge, steam-operated railroad is one of the last remaining remnants that showcases just how the west was won. Built in 1880, the Cumbres/Toltec was part of the San Juan extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Today, it offers visitors a spectacular scenic journey through the San Juan Mountains and Toltec Gorge.  The entire 64-mile journey from Chama to Antonito will take you through a remarkably diverse landscape that consists of majestic canyons, dense forest, rolling hills, plateaus, pastures, expansive plains and arid vistas.

After getting my train ticket, I made my way directly across the street to check in at the Parlor Car Bed and Breakfast. This B&B is owned/run by Bonsall and Wendy, a lovely couple who enjoy the train as much as they do the various visitors who stay with them. As a matter of fact, Bonsall is a volunteer docent and rides the train one or two times per week providing passengers with an interpretive background on the railroad’s history.

Not only is the location convenient, the accommodations are as cozy as the breakfast is delicious.  The morning I was there, I enjoyed a fresh fruit cup with a scoop of sorbet. This was followed by an amazing egg/potato entrée…with the final course of a freshly baked blueberry scone with some heavenly goodness drizzled on top.

At precisely 10am each day from mid-May to mid-October, trains from Chama, NM and Antonito, CO leave their respective stations—two and a half hours later the trains meet in the middle at the Osier Depot for lunch. Lunch is served cafeteria style with several meal configurations to choose from. This is how the schedule normally works; however, my trip was hindered slightly due to a mechanical issue with the train coming from Antonito. With century old trains, you might think mechanical issues would be a fairly frequent occurrence, however as I chatted up our conductor during the delay, he informed me that it was actually quite rare. The trains, as well as the track, are constantly being monitored and maintained. The delay in Osier gave us an opportunity to peruse this once old town and toll station, while snapping up some extra pictures. I even saw a couple of folks hike down to the river, and at over 9600 feet, I did not envy their potential rapid assent to the train should the blasting of four long whistles take place [explained in next paragraph]. We even witnessed ranchers moving their herd of cattle through the area, which for most city slickers, is a rare sight.

At the beginning of your journey, soon after the train leaves the station, the conductor comes down the aisle to punch your ticket—shortly thereafter some basic information follows…such as what the train whistle blasts mean. The first signal we learned were that four long blasts means that the train will depart in 5 minutes. Apparently the guy seated a few rows in front of me after lunch did not pay attention during the morning orientation…as soon as the train began to depart the station, he realized his mom was not next to him. By the time the conductor was alerted and radioed the other train, it was too late—Mom, apparently got on the wrong train and would have to take the bus back to the other end…to meet her oblivious son.

As we left the Osier Depot, we soon entered a tunnel bore out of the rock-face cliffs…one of two tunnels the train would go through during its journey.  The second tunnel was long enough, with just enough bend to create a few moments of complete darkness—I even tested it by putting my hand in front of my face. Sure enough, no light reflected in order for me to see my five fingers waving back at myself.

The second half of the journey to Antonito offered some dramatic curves in the track that allowed us all to take pictures of the engine and steam car.  It’s quite a sight, and, an engineering marvel of the day to have steam powered by coal pull the heavy loads up and over this dramatic set of passes. As a matter of fact, one section of the track has a 4% grade, which for an automobile is no problem, but for a train…it’s quite a big deal.

After we crossed the New Mexico and Colorado borders eleven times, and passed by Whiplash Curve and Lava Loop, we were on the home stretch to the station in Antonito. From a peak elevation of just over 10,000 feet at Cumbres pass, to 7,888 feet at the Antonito station, the terrain changes dramatically. Instead of tall Pine and Aspen trees, the flat vista in front of us was arid, or high plains desert. As I learned the next day from the drive back to Chama, just a few miles away the terrain turns back to forest.

In Antonito I had reservations at the River’s Inn Bed and Breakfast. The owner/innkeeper (Ursula,) told me to give her a call when the train got in and she’d come pick me up.  At first I thought it was because I was a VIP, but come to find out, it’s a service she offers all train riders. The B&B is certainly within walking distance (about half a mile or so), however if you have luggage and your car is at the other end, it’s nice to know that someone is willing to pick you up.

Ursula was kind enough to give me a quick tour around the small town of Antonito. To be honest, there isn’t much to see or do right in town, but there are a few interesting sights. For starters…if you go, you have to check out “Cano’s Castle.” This extremely odd, yet creatively unique home, was built by a Native American Vietnam Veteran. One might assume that Cano did not come back from the war in the same state in which he left—anyone who would build such an odd structure, has to be, well, a bit odd himself. Nonetheless, Cano has created a structure that continues to inspire a community, while captivating onlookers. Some might call “Cano’s Castle” Antonito’s, “Ball of String, “ or “Cadillac henge,” two other odd creations that attract visitors by the thousands.

Cano began building his castle in 1980 and has not slowed down to this day…he just continues to add on. Cano’s never-ending construction is enabled and fueled by what most would describe as, “junk” donated by his fellow neighbors.  Nothing goes to waste, Cano makes use of even the strangest items in the most intriguing ways…his imagination seems boundless.

The most refined place in Antonito’s has to be Ursula’s “River’s Inn.” This 1907 home was restored to its glory back in 1999, showcasing beautiful hardwood floors, wonderful craftsmanship and a porch beckoning its use. There are four rooms to choose from, each with a distinct look and feel.  Ursula hails from Switzerland, and in an attempt to share some of her heritage with guests breakfast is prepared more European style.

The next day I had a decision to make…should I take the train back, or the motor coach. I decided to take the motor coach, that way I could get back to Chama before the train departed and I could get some photo and video footage. Come to find out, “chasing the train” is a big lure for folks. Once the train leaves the Chama station, enthusiasts hop in their cars and find a plethora of vantage points in which to take pictures as the train chugs up Cumbres pass.

The Cumbres Toltec Scenic Railroad operates daily from mid-May to mid-October, however they are looking at the possibility of adding some future winter rides with a massive rotary snow removal engine clearing the tracks to make way.  Watch the video below and you’ll see what an amazing experience this would be.

If you’ve ever ridden the Cumbres & Toltec train, please leave a comment below and share your experience with my readers and me.

[Video] Spruce Treehouse in Mesa Verde

Sunday, January 13th, 2013

Located in the Mesa Verde National Park, the Spruce Treehouse is the third largest cliff dwelling in the park,  and one of the best preserved. Spruce Treehouse is the most accessible cliff dwelling in the park, however some will find the steep decent/accent via a paved path to be a bit of a challenge.

The Spruce Treehouse was believed to be constructed between 1211 and 1278 A.D. by the ancestors of Puebloan people. This particular cliff dwelling contains 130 rooms and 8 kivas (a ceremonial chamber) one of which you’re allowed to explore.

This cliff dwelling was first discovered in 1888, when two local ranchers happened upon it while searching for stray cattle, twenty years later the park opened to visitors. The name “Spruce Treehouse” was derived by the fact that a large tree, which the ranchers identified as a Douglas Spruce, was found growing from the front of the dwelling to the top of the mesa.

How to Get There
Mesa Verde National Park is located just 35 miles west of Durango off of highway 160. From Cortez, take US 160 east for eight miles to the park entrance, then follow the winding park road 15 miles to Far View Visitor Center, then, 5.5 miles farther to Chapin Mesa Museum—the Spruce Tree House is just below the museum.

When to Go
Mesa Verde is open year-round, however many sites/services may be closed due to weather.  Winter is a wonderful time to visit as the snow gives the park an entirely different look as the rest of the year, and, there are far fewer people. The park is quit spread out and traffic/crowds are usually not a problem, except for perhaps some of the more popular sites.   Wildflowers bloom from April through September.

Visiting Tips
On a one-day visit, begin early and stop first at the Far View Visitor Center (which is open mid-April to mid-October) to purchase various tour tickets. Then head to the Chapin Mesa Museum for an overview… you can walk down to the Spruce Tree House  for a tour of your first cliff dwelling (no tickets required). From there drive the Cliff Palace Loop Road. In the afternoon, follow the Mesa Top Loop Road. Wear sturdy shoes and be prepared for some strenuous climbing if you plan to visit the cliff dwellings—depending on the time of year there are several you can explore. Binoculars are useful for views across the canyon. If you have more than a day, stay the night at the lodge or camp out at one of the campgrounds…the stargazing is amazing!

Click the following link to see more of my pictures of Mesa Verde National Park. Or, click the following link to read a post and watch a video of my favorite cliff dwelling at Mesa Verde, the Balcony House.

If you’ve ever been to Mesa Verde National Park, leave a comment below and let my readers and me know what you like best?

The Mesa Verde “Balcony House” climb and tour

Friday, May 11th, 2012

Most of Mesa Verde National Park can be explored on your own, however there are a number of sites (including the Balcony House) that require a permit and guided tour by a knowledgeable park ranger. The price is just $3 for each guided tour, which I really recommend since these are treasured highlights of the park.

Balcony House is an adventurous cliff dwelling tour that requires climbing a series of ladders, including one as tall as 32 feet.  And, there is a tight 12′ long tunnel that takes a bit of yielding to get the body through. I found the ladder assents and tunnel navigation to be a lot of fun, however some might look at it with a bit of trepidation.  All of the climbing around really adds to the overall excitement of this tour, which I think is one of the coolest in the park.  The nod for most popular sight and tour in the park however goes to the”Cliff Palace.”

Balcony House is a medium size cliff dwelling with forty rooms. This particular archeological site illustrates how room and passageway construction evolved over time.

Be sure to stop by the Far View Visitor Center to purchase your tickets for the one-hour tour. Click the following link to see more of my pictures of the Balcony House at Mesa Verde National Park.  If you’ve ever been to the “Balcony House” please leave a comment below and tell my readers and me about your experience.

Click the following link if you’d like to see a video of the “Spruce Treehouse.”

Gateway Auto Museum, A Distinctive Piece of Americana

Tuesday, June 7th, 2011

There’s something particularly apropos about a winding drive down a scenic highway—to a place less traveled, to visit, an Auto Museum. Driving the open road to a far off destination is something truly American. Happening upon an auto museum, while documenting my road trip travels, seems just a bit serendipitous.

My destination…Gateway, Colorado.  The location…Gateway Canyons Resort, where you’ll find the Gateway Auto Museum…a pleasantly unexpected attraction.  Whether you’re a classic car buff or not, everyone will enjoy and appreciate this outstanding collection of American history—which spans 100 years and encapsulates each era with remarkable detail.

Most people would expect to be impressed by all the wonderful cars, and while that alone will satisfy most, I took particular interest in the precision of the detail.  The Museum is the wrapping paper & bow of a much anticipated gift. There are several galleries within the Museum, each painstakingly presented to give the visitor a real sense of what it would have been like to be in that era. There are interactive displays, signage from the period, various props like ol’ gas pumps, and even a 50s diner.  Each automobile is artfully displayed with strategic spotlights accenting the lines that made these cars instant classics.  This museum celebrates the history, design and social significance that defined a nation, a nation that is distinctly, American.

With approximately 50 cars always on display, it takes a 30,000 square foot facility to house them all.  What makes this collection even more impressive is that it’s a private one.  All the cars at the Gateway Auto Museum are from the personal collection of John Hendricks (founder of the Discovery channel) and his family.

The prized possession in the Hendricks Collection is the one-of-a-kind 1954 Oldsmobile F-88 concept car designed by Harley Earl. Not only does this car have the distinction of being a part of American automotive auction history (sold for $3.24m), it’s considered one of America’s finest examples of rolling art to emerge from the post-war era.  The story behind why this car didn’t make it to production, and how this particular one survived is quite fascinating, but you’ll have to visit the Gateway Auto Museum to learn about it.

The collection is arranged in a Timeline that captures 100 years of American automotive history… from the 1906 Cadillac Coupe, to the 2006 Stallion Mustang. As you stroll the museum, you’ll soon realize…this is no ordinary auto museum—it’s one part history lesson, one part social importance, and one part enthusiastic jubilation.

From the moment you take a step back in time in the Open Road Theater, listening to Walter Cronkite talk about the American Automobile and its place in society—to the video clip showing the acquisition of the F-88 Concept Car—it’s obvious that this is a special place.

“People experienced cars as magic machines that provoked dreams of adventure on the open road,” John Hendricks

Museum Hours:

Open Sunday – Thursday 10am to 5pm; Friday – Saturday 10am to 7pm.  I would recommend 2-3 hours to fully enjoy the entire museum.


Nestled in the canyons of Western Colorado in. Gateway—one hour southwest of Grand Junction along the scenic and Historic Byway 141.


Click the following link to see more of my pictures at the Gateway Auto Museum.

If you’ve been to the Gateway Auto Museum before, please post a comment below.  If you’ve enjoyed this post, please click the “like” or “share” buttons below and share with your friends and family.